A Quick Guide to Pilsners
A long long time ago, in a city far far away, the citizens of Plzěn were so appalled by the quality of their beer, that they dumped it all. They then built a new brewery and hired a Bavarian brewmaster by the name of Josef Groll. In 1842 Pilsner was born. No one could have known that this pale refreshing lager, born of dissatisfaction and desperation, would reshape the world of beer forever.
The Germans followed suit, brewing their own version in the 1870s, calling it Pils, and soon after the rest of the world answered the call. Thus spawned from those two original styles the big generic industrial lagers, familiar to all. Eventually, some exciting new variations were born, and with whom we shall soon be acquainted.
Czech Premium Pale Lager/Bohemian Pilsner- the OG
It’s a deep gold colour, with a big foamy head and a bouquet of floral hops, rich malt, and butter. That butter aroma is a fermentation product called diacetyl, and it contributes to a slightly slick mouthfeel, which is already tipping the scales at medium. The flavour is similar to the aroma with a clear and present bitterness that is more soft than biting, a prominent malt character, and a finish that is elongated and smooth.
One to try – Pilsner Urquell, Czechia
German Pils
Sometimes called pilsner, this version is paler, more bitter, crisp and biting than the Czech style. You’ll find it to have a lighter body, be drier, more highly carbonated, and have a more bitter finish. The first thing you should smell are the hops, which express a floral, spicy character. The malt is low, grainy, like a cracker, and aside from the occasional faint initial whiff of sulfur, no other fermentation products should be noticeable. Differences in water chemistry make German Pils decrease in bitterness and crispness as one moves from north to south.
One to try- Jever Pils- Germany
International/North American Pilsners
The lowest in both flavour and bitterness, these are pale highly carbonated industrial beers, generally served exceedingly cold. There is some variation amongst the different brands, but the style is still fairly homogenized. Beware the clear and green bottled versions, as UV light will cause a chemical reaction giving them a skunky aroma in pretty short order. Some people claim to like the skunky as it is deemed “European”. I can assure you it is not. These are amongst the most well marketed beers on the planet.
Two to try- American Style- Budweiser is consistent
European Style-Stella Artois is consistent
Craft Versions of the European styles
A lot of these are quite good. They retain many of the qualities of the originals, usually leaning heavily towards German, while exemplifying the character of local ingredients. These can vary so much that a general sensory description would be irresponsible.
Two to try- Bellwoods Bellweiser- Toronto Canada
Burdock Château- Toronto Canada
Dry Hopped Pilsners
The unifying factor here is that they are basically German style pilsners that have been dry hopped for big aroma.
Italian Pilsner
This really is just an amped up German pils. The hops are of the noble variety, so the character will be the same, with the real differentiator being the overt prominence in the bouquet. The underlying malt and the bitterness are in line with the German versions as well.
One to try- Indie Ale House Marco Polo- Toronto, Canada
New Zealand Pilsner
New Zealand hops are something quite special. With aroma descriptors like white grape, kiwi, passionfruit, blackcurrant, lime, gooseberry, and cat pee of all things, they can really be a sensory circus. The aromas on these beers are nothing short of wild. Boasting the same bitterness range as their German cousins but with malt playing more of a forward role expect a slight perceived sweetness, which can round off the edges. Make no mistake though, this beer is still a showcase for hops.
One to try – Silversmith Brewing Motueka Pils–Oakville, Canada
West Coast Pilsner
A pilsner dry hopped with American hops. In my experience, the classic american hops are favoured, offering that dank, resiny, citrusy aroma that defined craft beer. It’s all fair game though, and some of the tropical and stone fruit aromas of the newer varieties can make an appearance. In some instances these can feel like a less aggressive IPA. Usually fairly pale, some of these have a slight haze to them.
These are very hard to find in Ontario right now… but….
One to try-Refined Fool Bowl cut gone Wrong -Sarnia, Canada