The Beer Taster's Notebook

Jonathan Thompson

Highlander Brew Co. Smoked Porter

I’ve been avoiding this beer for a few weeks. Something about sunny weather, despite all the rain, and the general ambiance of summer just doesn’t scream at me to spend any time with a porter, let alone a smoked one. Anyone who’s ever had a rauchbier knows that while interesting and delicious, they inhabit a space fairly well removed from that of thirst quencher. When it finally called my name I answered.

It is dark brown, with the illusion of black in situations of lower lighting, but with ruby highlights in brighter illumination. The head is creamy and offwhite, with some respectable retention. 

The aroma coming off this porter is that of lower bitterness chocolate and malteaser. Perhaps grape nuts. Underneath is a low level of caramel bordering on treacle. I had expected big smoke, and based on the can’s tartan accent, I anticipated this to be peat. I tried to find it, but there is nary a hint of smoke on the nose here. If there is, it weaves so tightly into the roast that it remains hidden for the entire session.  

Flavour is much the same, although there seems to be this entirely confusing situation in which the bitterness coats and adheres to the tongue, like a blanket, and the remaining malt sweetness, roast, and chocolate flood the rest of the mouth. Its as if the two were able to unlatch and perform tasks separately, all to reintegrate into the finish. The bitterness then drops off leaving the lingering light chocolate to close off the experience. The smoke remains illusive. 

A reasonable expectation would be that the intensity here should be fairly sturdy. A small piece of Beemster XO, completely shadowed the beer, although it worked nicely with a pickled egg.