The Beer Taster's Notebook

A Thirsty Trek through the Nation’s Capital: Ottawa’s Brewing Scene Part 2

In part two, I explore the less walkable, but equally impressive.

Bicycle Craft Brewery 

850 Industrial Ave #12, Ottawa

Having pounded a few extra kilometers into my soles, I finally walked through the doors of Bicycle Craft. The brewery is a bit of a hike from downtown, six kilometers from Parliament Hill to be exact, but small labours often culminate in tasty rewards. The brewery is bright and lively, and so are the beers. With a heavy bias towards IPAs, and even more so towards the hazy category, the beverages here are nothing short of fresh and restorative. Just the ticket after the implied two-wheeled journey, although in my case, two-footed. Mindful to avoid redundancy, each beer’s hop bills are carefully curated to provide unique and explosive bouquets of tropical aromas. A flight of four exposed varying degrees of haze, along with an array of hop aromas ranging from classic American citrus and pine to the passionfruit and dried pineapple of New Zealand. A fast tracked education in the dizzying dimensions of hop expression. Don’t walk away with the impression that Bicycle Craft is exclusive to hop heads though. Rotating selections see a Wee Heavy currently on the menu along with an Imperial Stout. Their festbier, an appropriate seasonal offering during my visit, was very well executed, nice and toasty with a slightly malty finish. This was a walk I would gladly relive. Maybe next time I’ll bring my bike.  

Stray Dog Brewing Company

501 Lacolle Way Suite 6, Ottawa

Orleans seemed a bit far to walk, even for me, so I ordered a ride which was pleasantly short and strangely inexpensive, considering it involved a highway. Us Torontonians often forget that there are cities with more than one highway per direction, and that one might be able to drive from point A to point B on said highways without stopping. Several breweries reside out this way, but Stray Dog was the standout. The dog friendly angle is made fairly obvious, and my flight was served in a muffin tin, which was pretty cool and unique. The selection is diverse with a healthy weighting of stouts, something always welcomed in my world. The Oatmeal Stout is a lovely creation complete with a rare depth and complexity, but the Peanut Butter Oatmeal Stout was the showstopper. Like a non-cloying liquid peanut butter cup, with darker chocolate and roastier peanuts, all woven together with restrained but firm hop bitterness and roasted grains. If this beer were a confectionary, I would be in trouble. Big trouble. Discovering that Stray Dog was yet another brewery offering a California common brought a smile to my face as I continue to gain hope for the style’s impending revival. There was one IPA on the menu, a departure from current trends. Of course I had to try it and it was very lovely. A perfect bridge from the Light Lager and Cali Common and into the darkness.  

Dominion City Brewing Co.

5510 Canotek Rd, Unit 15 Ottawa

Dominion City’s beers have appeared in my fridge recently, albeit limited by the LCBO’s inventory. Always a challenge for smaller brewers. With storage conditions and limited distribution, a visit to the source is always a game changer, and boy did the game change. Dominion City, consistent with this leg of my journey, is located in another commercial plaza. Despite the locations, all of these spaces were welcoming and comfortable. I took up residence at the bar for a clear view of the menu and taps, with the big wood barrels filling out the background, and began selecting my flight. Where to start is always a challenge when it all looks so enticing. A very fresh and floral pilsner cleared the way for the main event. Winding Down The Bines is a fresh hopped ale, and boy was it fresh hopped. The aromas just danced out of the glass and that resinous dankness normally reserved for the pacific northwest was front and center. The Double Dry Hopped Maui Nelson was a flavour bomb of major tropical fruit with the New Zealand character lurking in the background, along with a bit of resin, present but shy. The Baltic Porter was both powerful and approachable, managing to push the boundaries without sliding irreversibly into imperial stout territory. Baltic porters are a beer that rides such a fine line that slight movement in any direction can send it into a whole different category. Nailing it is an art, and Dominion City are artists. The menu here is varied. Varied enough that it’s close to impossible not to confidently select something and enjoy it, no matter your leanings. All the beers were on point, but consistent with my experience, there was a stand out. The Wilderness Gothic Vidal Saison is a must try. The barrel fermentation was rendered explicit by some funky and amazing brett character, while the white grape and citrus interplayed with all the big flavours keeping everyone in their rightful place. I’m embarrassed to call this a symphony in a glass, but I will anyway. This beer alone would have made the trip to Dominion City worth it.  

I stepped off the train at Toronto Union Station and walked out into the rain, my beer filled bags significantly heavier. Rest assured, I will be back for more.