The Bitter Pain of Spice and (some) Beer
Some classic pairings just make sense. Fish n’ chips with best bitter, steamed mussels and gueuze, bratwurst and pils. Not only do they work on a sensory level, but they are so culturally linked, they really are a natural fit. This simple beauty can lead us to some disastrous couplings however, like spicy curries and IPA. While the imagery may be nothing short of romantic, the combination of bitter and chili heat is an invitation to a world of pain.
To truly appreciate this interaction, we should first understand the mechanics of both chili heat and bitterness. Let’s start with the chili peppers. Capsaicin is the compound that makes chilis hot. It is a lipophilic alkaloid, meaning it’s more dissolvable in fats than water, which is why you reach for milk instead of water when attempting suicide wings. Capsaicin binds to TRPV1 receptors, which are part of the trigeminal system. The trigeminal system is a network of nerves that signal things like texture, irritation and temperature. Chili heat, menthol coolness, the sinus churning burn of wasabi, the mouth drying of high tannin wine, and the pricklyness of soda water are all trigeminal senses. The TRPV1 receptor is the one responsible for heat, and when capsaicin binds to it, it sends out the same signal to the brain as thermal heat.
In nature, bitterness is associated with toxic alkaloids, often part of many plant’s defense systems. A lot of bitter alkaloids have some pretty nasty effects, and so for the sake of survival, we are programmed to react negatively. Of course plants are pretty smart and many replicate these bitter compounds, although harmless, as a protection mechanism. The bitter taste receptors (T2Rs) send signals, through cranial nerves to the gustatory cortex. These receptors are of course part of the taste buds on the tongue, but there is evidence of bitterness receptors throughout the body. These signals are essentially warnings.
So what happens when the two are combined? Well, both signals converge in the insular and orbitofrontal cortexes, and since both of these indicate danger, they tend to amplify one another. If a tiger is chasing you, and then a rhinoceros starts coming after you as well, you aren’t going to become less scared. It’s double the danger, so to speak.
The good news is that plenty of beers can soothe some of that burn. Maltier or sweeter beers will both trigger more saliva production and send positive signals to the brain. Capsaicin is slightly soluble in saliva, and so the concentration of irritants is somewhat reduced, diminishing the potential signaling. The body is also wired to seek out safe calories in the form of fats and sugars, which is why it feels so good to eat cheesecake. And so these positive signals help to dampen the warning triggers.
Now, which beers pair specifically with which curry is a topic for further analysis, but you may be aware that I am fond of the beer=bread theme. Unless you find a curry you would not wish to accompany with naan or roti, my position stands. Notice I said “wish to”, we are not attempting to adulterate tradition, nor ignore it, but it’s your food, and you can do with it what you wish. The following “bready” beers will fill most roles. Munich helles lager will tame things a bit, ideal for less bold curries. Munich Dunkel will stand up to slightly bigger dishes, and bière de garde or doppelbock will handle the big and the bold. I chose mostly German beers here for a reason. There is less license with interpretation. While an American blonde can be quite bready, what if the brewer decided to up the hops, or switch out the yeast? There are of course other options, and we shall dig deeper another day, pairing a list of curries with their own specific beer.
Until then,
Cheers!