The Beer Taster's Notebook

A Thirsty Trek through the Nation’s Capital: Ottawa’s Brewing Scene Part 1

WAs a Toronto based beer writer, the hunt for new beers, breweries, and flavours is a never ending quest. The Ottawa region had been popping up on my radar lately, and with the constraints of distribution being what they are, a visit to the source became essential. And so, ticket in hand, I hopped on the early morning train to the nation’s capital, and five hours later, set off to explore some of Ottawa’s finest breweries. 

Part one- the Walkable

Beyond the Pale Brewing Company

250 City Centre Av. Unit 108. Ottawa

21 George St, Ottawa

Surrounded by exposed stone and wood beams, old world charm blends with modern fixtures. Beyond the Pale’s Byward taproom is a lovely place to sit and have a few pints. The upstairs is huge and open, perfect for large gatherings. The beer menu is plentiful, and as they charge per sample, instead of a fixed flight, the world is your oyster. This is a key feature by the way, and something we see more and more of. A number of German styles graced the menu, beers accompanied by rigid guidelines with little room for creativity. Not an issue for Beyond The Pale. The beers were all true to style, fresh and delicious. I ignorantly skipped over the Pink Fuzz, assuming it was a seltzer or something I didn’t care to try. My error was rectified by the diligent bartender, to whom I owe a debt of gratitude. It’s an American Wheat with grapefruit zest, a zingy and refreshing pint. Perfect for a hot summer day, or just a thirsty afternoon. Rye Guy, the rye IPA, is a hoppy beer with a grainy spiciness and was a highlight for me. Calcom, their California common, was balanced, on point, and a special treat. Also known as steambeer, California commons are very hard to find.    

Tooth and Nail Brewing Company

3 Irving Ave, Ottawa

Being a bit of a rail nerd, I took the O-Train out a few stops to Hintonburg, although it is walkable from downtown. It’s an interesting little area, rife with cafes and specialty shops, including a year round Christmas store. Tooth and Nail is an open and spacious bar. The lack of footrail is redeemed by the gorgeous stools. The slew of awards housed behind the bar instills confidence, and for good reason. The tasters are individually and reasonably priced, and the glasses, like smaller stemless wineglasses, allow headspace for the aromatics to gather. This demonstrates the brewery’s in-depth understanding of flavour and an attention to detail. While none of my selections failed to impress, two beers really stood out. The aptly named Fortitude stout has some real structure to it thanks to the addition of oats, which contribute a sort of creamy and sturdy texture. A firm bitterness and prominent roast balance out the deep chocolate and coffee notes, ending in a bittersweet chocolate finish. Valour, a saison, manages a balance of approachability and complexity rarely achieved outside the boundaries of Belgium. The peppery character of the yeast couples with a refreshing carbonation and concludes in a dry medium length finish, leaving only a slight bitterness to linger on the tongue. Also, ask to see the Lego scale model of the bar.

Spark Beer 

702 Somerset St. W, Ottawa

Spark has an interesting feel to it. Part pizza parlour, part hip local bar, with lots of 45 degree angles. They are known for their focus on sour beers, but the variety of styles offered will satisfy any palate. I generally stay away from the one-dimensional Canadian kettle sours, but the Voices Carry Rockaberry is anything but. It contains a complexity rarely found outside the wild and funky categories, and frankly, deserves a spot as a benchmark for how sour beers should be. The Aurora Foeder Aged Grissette is intelligently crafted and builds on the brewery’s theme of care and complexity. Take your time with this one. With patience and attention you can coax out the nuanced and multilayered flavours imparted by the oak and yeast. And the pizza was good too.

Flora Hall Brewing

37 Flora St., Ottawa

Flora Hall is a thing of beauty, located in Centertown in a restored early 20th century building. The wood top on the horseshoe shaped bar is invitingly warm, shunning the modern trends of cold hard edges and stone. I was lucky enough to get a spot at said bar, amidst a surprisingly large mid-week crowd. Sitting down on my stool, my feet settled naturally onto the foot rail, an overlooked necessity of comfort often absent in today’s taprooms. On the wall was a large board announcing the available offerings. The variety was impressive and the only challenge was knowing where to start. It’s often wise to begin lower in intensity and so I prudently chose the Bohemian Style Pilsner which they serve via side-pull. The resulting brilliantly clear beer topped with a thick head of wet foam paved the way for what was to come. The taster pours here are served in a Teku glass, which for me is a dream come true. Insider tip – jump at any chance to try a wet hopped, or fresh hopped, beer. The Fresh Hop XPA here reinforces the point. Sadly these beers are seasonal and fade quickly, but the memories do not. The Ordinary Bitter is anything but ordinary, and being a well balanced sessionable ale, one could make a semi responsible afternoon of it. The Hazy Oat Pale Ale is just sunshine in a glass, full of tropical goodness, and can brighten up even the gloomiest of days. For the finale, it had to be the Foeder Aged Imperial Chocolate Stout, a beer whose intricacies almost can’t be articulated. Notes of coconut and vanilla, all dancing around a deep complex chocolate foundation, held together with roasted grain and a warming alcohol presence. A true entanglement of harmonious flavours. I walked away with a bottle, now tucked away in the fridge to be shared with only the most special of friends.  

In part two, I explore the less walkable, but equally delicious.